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Itacaré
 
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Salvador/Txai

This place was “off the grid” for many years because of its relative isolation. Understandably, more than 50 km of rough, hazardous dirt roads has the tendency to keep any destination in that sleepy land of forgetfulness. Then BA-001, a road connecting Ilhéus to Itacaré, was finished in 1998. Ever since that watershed date, the number of tourists visiting this particular corner of paradise has slowly but steadily increased. Several remarkable hotels, inns and restaurants have sprung up lately providing much needed infrastructure to worldly visitors. But, amazingly, despite Itacaré’s increasing popularity, many of it’s heavenly beaches remain deserted most of the year. Go figure!

Itacaré is a refuge for nature lovers, surfers and free-spirits who hunger for a taste of the real Bahia. Glimpses of a quieter past are apparent on its cobblestone streets and in its charming old houses. The town is divided into 7 neighborhoods: Porto de Trás, Marimbondo, Passagem, Centro, São Miguel, Pituba e Concha. Each neighborhood has it’s own style, unique history and traditions. On my recent visit I found that daily walks through these neighborhoods always ended in lazy conversations with locals. I came to relish these moments that made for pleasant afternoons that seemed to linger on until the hands of time came to a complete stop.

Things pick up again at night however. In fact, nightlife in Iatacaré can be pretty turbo-charged thanks to the plethora of locally chic beach bars, nightclubs and restaurants. There are some "don't miss" dining options that I would be remiss not to share with you: Casa Sapucaia, creatively mixes exotic local ingredients in a style that could best be described as “provocatively delicious”; Boca de Forno Pizzaria, is very popular with the local crowd, serving artisanal drinks and fantastic pizza in a relaxed, pleasant atmosphere; Jardim dos Sabores offers a variety of unforgettable freshly caught fish, lobster and seafood dishes that makes my mouth water to this day.

The coast here is an endless succession of white sand beaches and sensual hills covered with woods, flowers, and palm trees. Beaches closest to the town are popular during the season and have a very good infrastructure for tourism. However, those seeking more isolated beaches are in luck. The most distant ones are beautifully deserted, but take note, only a handful can be reached by car. Believe it or not, there are still some beaches so small and hidden away that they don’t appear in any guidebook. Needless to say, these are the ones you’ve got to see!

Here’s my short list of favorite Itacaré beaches. Resende Beach is a small bay with immense palm trees, white sand, natural pools and good surfing waves. It’s near downtown, but it has little infrastructure because it is located in a protected reserve where construction is prohibited. This is neat because it gives you the sense of being on a distant beach even though you’re close to town. Prainha is Itacaré’s main attraction and is considered to be one of Brazil’s most beautiful beaches. Prainha’s bay is perfectly symmetrical, with two green hills to the north and south of the beach, and a beautiful coconut grove near the sand. It is a surfer hangout offering no intrusions from civilization, only a modest stand selling chilled coconut water. Concha Beach, Itacaré’s largest beach, is a must-visit. It has an excellent tourist infrastructure. Concha Beach has clear water, without waves and is graced by hundreds of tall palm trees. In the summer when I visited, there were many stands serving food and drinks, making it the best place to mix with locals. The end of the beach, near the lighthouse, is the best place to watch the sunset. Lastly, for those looking for a real escape there are the beaches of Serra Grande. Located squarely in an Environmental Protection Area are the Serra Grande beaches, several kilometers of beautiful practically unknown sand: Sargi’s Beach, which is 4.5 km long, has talcum powder-fine sand, clear waters, slow pounding surf and warm water currents. Pé da Serra beach is the best place to watch the arrival of fisherman’s rafts. Pompilho, Prainha, do Guedes and Foz do Tijuipe beaches offer nature in its purest state and access, though possible is restricted. Summing up, Itacaré offers the intrepid traveler a taste of the real Bahia. Visit it while it lasts

Itacaré
State: Bahia
Region: Northeast
Population: 18,120 inhabitants

Distances
Salvador: 440 km
Itabuna: 98 km
Feira de Santana: 362 km





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